Chapter 12420124

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Chapter Number4
Chapter Url
Full Date1843-05-12
Page Number4
Word Count3769
Last Corrected2011-03-31
Newspaper TitleThe Sydney Morning Herald (NSW : 1842 - 1954)
Trove TitleAmerican Notes for General Circulation
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Chapter IV.



BEFORE leaving Boston, I devoted one     day to an excursion to Lowell. I assign a separate chapter to this visit ; not be- cause I am about to describe it at any great length, but because I remember it as a thing by itself, and am desirous that my readers should do the same,

I made acquaintance with an American railroad, on this occasion, for the first time. As these works are pretty much alike all through the States, their general characteristics are easily described.

There are no first and second class car-

riages, as with us ; but there is a gentle- men's car and a ladies' car ; the main distinction between which is, that in the first everybody smokes, and in the second nobody does. As a black man never tra- vels with a white one, there is also a negro car, which is a great blundering clumsy  

chest, such as Gulliver put to sea in, from the kingdom of Brobdignag. There ¡s a great deal of jolting, a great deal of noise, a great deal of wall, not much window, a locomotive engine, a shriek, and a bell.

The cars are like shabby omnibusses, but larger ; holding thirty, forty, fifty peo- ple. The seats, instead of stretching from end to end, are placed crosswise. Each seat holds two persons. There is a long row of them on each side of the caravan,   a narrow passage up the middle, and a door at both ends. In the centre of the carriage   there is usually a stove, fed with charcoal 0r anthracite coal ; which is for the most part red-hot. It is insufferably close ; and you see the hot air fluttering between   yourself and any other object you may happen to look at, like the ghost of smoke.

In the ladies' car, there, are a great many gentlemen who have ladies with them. There are also a great many ladies who have nobody with them ; for any lady may travel     alone, from one end of the United States

to the other, and be certain of the most   courteous and considerate treatment every-   where. The conductor, or check-taker, or guard, or whatever he may be, wears no uniform. He walks up and down the car,

and in and out of it, as his fancy dictates ; leans against the door with his hands in  

his pockets and stares at you, if you chance to be a stranger ; or enters into a conversation with the passenger about him. A great many newspapers are     pulled out, and a few of them are read. Everybody talks to you, or to anybody    

else who hits his fancy. If you are an

Englishman, he expects that that railroad is pretty much like an English railroad.  

If you say " No," he says " Yes ?" (interrogatively), and asks in what res- pect they differ. You enumerate   the heads of difference, one by one, and he says " Yes ?" (still interrogatively) to each. Then he guesses that you don't travel faster in England ; and on your replying that you do, says " Yes ?" again (still interrogatively), and, it is quite evi- dent, don't believe it. After a long pause,    

he remarks, partly to you and partly to the knob on the top of his stick, that   " Yankees are reckoned to be considerable

of a go-ahead people too ;" upon which you say " Yes," and then he says " Yes," again (affirmatively this time) ; and upon your looking out of the window, tells you, that behind that hill, and some three miles from the next station, there is a clever   town in a smart lo-ca-tion, where he ex-     pects you have con-cluded to stop. Your   answer in the negative, naturally leads to more questions in reference to your in-     tended route (always pronounced rout) ;   and wherever you are going you invariably   learn that you can't get there without im- mense difficulty and danger, and that all the great sights are somewhere else.

If a lady take a fancy to any male pas-   sengers' seat, the gentleman who accom- panies her gives him notice of the fact, and he immediately vacates it with great politeness. Politics are much discussed, so are banks, so is cotton. Quiet people avoid the question of the Presidency, for   there will be a new election in three years and a half, and party feeling runs very   high : the great constitutional feature of this institution being, that directly the acrimony of the last election is over, the acrimony of the next one begins ; which is an unspeakable comfort to all strong politicians and true lovers of their country : that is to say, to ninety-nine men and   boys out of every ninety-nine and a   quarter.

Except when a branch road joins the main one, there is seldom more than one track of rails ; so that the road is very narrow, and the view, where there is a deep cutting, by no means extensive. When   there is not, the character of the scenery     is always the same, mile after mile of stunted trees ; some hewn down by the axe, some blown down by the wind, some half-fallen and resting on their neighbours,   many mere logs half hidden in the swamp, others mouldered away to spongy chips. The very soil of the earth is made up of minute fragments such as these ; each pool of stagnant water has its crust of vegetable rottenness ; on every side there are the boughs and trunks, and stumps of trees, in every possible stage of   decay, decomposition, and neglect. Now you emerge for a few brief minutes on an open country, glittering with some bright lake or pool, broad as many an English   river, but so small here that it scarcely has a name ; now catch hasty glimpses of a distant town, with its clean white houses and their cool piazzas, its prim New En- gland church and school house ; when   whir-r-r ! almost before you have seen     them, comes the same dark screen : the stunted trees, the stumps, the logs, the stagnant water—all so like the last that you seem to have been transported back   again by magic.

The train calls at stations in the woods, where the wild impossibility of anybody having the smallest reason to get   out, is only to be equalled by the ap- parently desperate hopelessness of their     being any-body to get in. It rushes   across the turnpike road, where there   is not gate, no policeman, no signal :

nothing but a rough wooden arch, on which is painted " WHEN THE BELL     RINGS LOOK OUT FOR THE LOCOMO- TIVE." On it whirls headlong, dives through the woods again, emerges in the light, clatters over frail arches, rumbles   upon the heavy ground, shoots beneath a   wooden bridge which intercepts the light   for a second like a wink, suddenly awakens all the slumbering echoes in the main streets of a large town, and dashed on   hap-hazard, pell-mell, neck-or-nothing,         down the middle of the road. There—   with mechanics working at their trades,

and people leaning from their doors and windows, and boys flying kites and playing       marbles, and men smoking, and women     talking, and children crawling, and pigs burrowing, and unaccustomed horses

plunging and rearing, close to the very  

rails—there—on, on, on—tears the mad   dragon of an engine with its train of cars ; scattering in all directions a shower of burning sparks from its wood fire ; screech-   ing, hissing, yelling, panting ; until at last the thirsty monster stops beneath a covered way to drink, the people cluster round, and you have time to breathe again.  

I was met at the station at Lowell by a gentleman intimately connected with   the management of the factories there ;   and gladly putting myself under his guid-

ance, drove off at once to that quarter of   the town in which the works, the object of my visit, were situated. Although only     just of age—for if my recollections serve me, it has been a manufacturing town barely one and twenty years—Lowell is a   large, populous, thriving place. Those in-     dications of its youth which first attract   the eye, give it a quaintness and oddity of character which, to a visitor from the old country, is amusing enough. It was a very dirty winter's day, and nothing in   the whole town looked old to me, except the mud, which in some parts was almost knee deep, and might have been deposited there, on the subsiding of the waters after the Deluge. In one place, there was a new wooden church, which, having no steeple, and being yet unpainted looked like an enormous packing-case without any direc-   tion upon it. In another there was a large hotel, whose walls and colonnades were so crisp, and thin, and slight, that it had exactly the appearance of being built

with cards. I was careful not to draw  

my breath as we passed, and trembled when I saw a workman come out upon the roof, lest with one thoughtless stamp of his foot he should crush the structure be- neath him, and bring it rattling down. The very river that moves the machinery in the mills (for they are all worked by water power), seems to acquire a new character from the fresh buildings of bright red brick, and painted wood among  

which it takes its course ; and to be as

light-headed, thoughtless, and brisk a young river, in its murmurings and tum-   blings, as one would desire to see. One would swear that every " bakery," "groc- cery," and "book-bindery," and other     kind of store, took its shutters down for the first time, and started in business yesterday. The golden pestles and mor- tars fixed as signs upon the sun-blind frames outside the druggists, appear to   have been just turned out of the United    

States Mint ; and when I saw a baby of some week or ten days old in a woman's arms at a street corner, I found my self unconsciously wondering where it came from : never supposing for an instant that it could have been born in such a young

town as that.

There are several factories in Lowell, each of which belongs to what we should term a Company of Proprietors, but what they call in America, a Corporation. I went over several of these ; such as a woollen factory, a carpet factory, and a cotton factory : examined them in every part ; and saw them in their ordinary working aspect, with no preparation of any kind, or departure from their ordinary every- day proceedings. I may add, that I am well acquainted with our manufacturing towns in England, and have visited many mills in Manchester and elsewhere, in the

same manner.

I happened to arrive at the first factory just as the dinner hour was over, and the girls were returning to their work ; indeed the stairs of the mill were thronged with them as I ascended. They were all well dressed, but not, to my thinking, above their condition ; for I like to see the humbler classes of society careful of their dress and appearance, and even, if they please, de-

corated with such little trinkets as come

within the compass of their means. Sup- posing it confined within reasonable limits, I would always encourage this kind of pride, as a worthy element of self-respect   in any person I employed ; and should no more be deterred from doing so, because

some wretched female referred her fall to

a love of dress, than I would allow my construction of the real intent and meaning of the Sabbath to be influenced by any warning to the well-disposed, founded on his back-slidings on that particular day,   which might emanate from the rather doubtful authority of a murder in New-  


These girls, as I have said, were all   well dressed : and that phrase necessarily   includes extreme cleanliness. They had  

serviceable bonnets, good warm cloaks and shawls, and were not above clogs and pattens. Moreover, there were places in the mill in which they could deposit these things without injury; and there were conveniences for washing. They were healthy in appearance, many of them remarkably so, and had the manners and deportment of young women, not of degraded brutes of burden. If I had seen in one of these mills (but I did not, though I looked for something of this kind with a sharp eye), the most lisping, mincing, affected, and ridiculous young creatures that my imagination could sug- gest, that I should have thought of the careless, moping, slatternly, degraded, dull reverse (I have seen that), and should have been still well pleased to look upon her.

The rooms in which they worked were

as well ordered as themselves. In the windows of some there were green plants,   which were trained to shade the glass ; in   all, there was as much fresh air, cleanli- ness, and comfort, as the nature of the oc-

cupation would possibly admit of. Out of so large a number of females, many of     whom were only then just verging upon womanhood, it may be reasonably sup-     posed that some were delicate and fragile in appearance ; no doubt there were. But I solemnly declare, that from all the crowd I saw in the different factories that day, I   cannot recal or separate one young face that gave me a painful impression ; not one young girl whom, assuming it to be a matter of necessity that she should gain her daily bread by the labour of her hands, I would have removed from those works if I had had the power.  

They reside in various boarding-houses  

near at hand. The owners of the mills

are particularly careful to allow no persons   to enter upon the possession of these   houses, whose characters have not under- gone the most searching and thorough inquiry. Any complaint that is made against them, by the boarders, or by any one else, is fully investigated, and if good   ground of complaint be shown to exist against them, they are removed, and their occupation is handed over to some more deserving person. There area few chil-  

dren employed in these factories, but not many. The laws of the state forbid their working more than nine months in the year, and require that they be educated during the other three. For this purpose there are schools in Lowell ; and there are churches and chapels of various per- suasions, in which the young women may observe that form of worship in which they    

have been educated.

At some distance from the factories, and on the highest and pleasantest ground in

the neighbourhood, stands their hospital or boarding-house for the sick ; it is the best house in those parts, and was built by

an eminent merchant for his own resi- dence. Like that institution at Boston, which I have before described. It is

not parcelled out into wards, but is di- vided into convenient chambers, each of which has all the comforts of a very com- fortable home. The principal medical at- tendant resides under the same roof, and were the patients members of his own family, they could not be better cared for, or attended with greater gentleness and consideration, The weekly charge in this establishment for each female patient is three dollars, or twelve shillings English ; but no girl employed by any of the corpo- rations is ever excluded for want of the means of payment. That they do not very often want the means may be gathered from the fact, that in July, 1811, no fewer than 978 of these girls were depositors in the Lowell savings' bank ; the amount of whose joint savings was estimated at

100,000 dollars, or £20,000 English.

I am now going to state three facts, which will startle a large class of readers on this side of the Atlantic, very much.


Firstly, there is a joint-stock piano in a great many of the boarding-houses.   Secondly, nearly all these young women subscribe to circulating libraries. Thirdly, they have have got up among themselves a periodical, called THE LOWELL OFFERING, a repository of original articles, written ex- clusively, by females actively employed in the mills, which is duly printed, published, and sold ; and whereof I brought away from Lowell 400 good solid pages, which I have read from beginning to end.

The large class of readers, startled by   these facts, will exclaim, with one voice, " How very prepostrous !" On my deferen- tially enquiring why, they will answer, " These things are above their station." In reply to that objection. I would beg to ask, what their station is.

It is their station to work, and they do work. They labour in these mills, upon an average, twelve hours a-day, which is unquestionably work, and pretty tight work too. Perhaps it is above their sta- tion to indulge in such amusements, on any terms. Are we quite sure that we, in England, have not formed our ideas of the " station" of working people, from accus- toming ourselves to the contemplation of that class as they are, and not as they might be ? I think, that if we examine our own feelings, we shall find that the pianos, and the circulating libraries, and even The Lowell Offering, startle us by their novelty, and not by their hearing upon any abstract question of right or


For myself, I know no station in which, the occupation of to-day cheerfully done, and the occupation of to-morrow cheerfully looked to, and one of these pursuits is not most humanizing and laudable. I know

no station which is rendered more endur-

able to the person in it, or more safe to the person out of it, by having ignorance for

its associate. I know no station which has

a right to monopolize the means of mutual instruction, improvement, and rational entertainment ; or which has ever con- tinued to be a station very long, after seeking to do so.

Of the merits of the Lowell Offering as a literary production, I will only observe, putting entirely out of sight the fact of the articles having been written by these girls after the arduous labours of the day, that it will compare advantageously with a great many English Annuals. It is pleasant to find that many of its Tales are of the Mills and of those who work in them ; that they inculcate habits of self-denial and contentment, and teach good doctrines of enlarged benevolence. A strong feeling for the beauties of nature, as displayed in the solitudes the writers have left at home, breathes through its pages like wholesome village air ; and though a circulating library is a favourable school for the study of such topics, it has a very scant allusion to fine clothes, fine marriages, fine houses, or fine life. Some persons might object to the papers being signed occasionally

with rather fine names—but this is an

American fashion. One of the provinces of the state legislature of Massachusetts is to alter ugly names into pretty ones, as the children improve upon the tastes of their parents. These changes costing little or nothing, scores of Mary Annes are solemnly converted into Bevelinas every session.

It is said that, on the occasion of a visit from General Jackson or General Har- rison to this town, (I forget which, but it is not to the purpose), he walked through three miles and a half of these young ladies, all dressed out with parasols and silk stockings. But as I am not aware than any worse consequence ensued, than a sudden looking-up of all the parasols and silk stockings in the market ; and per- haps the bankruptcy of some speculative New Englander who bought them all up at any price, in expectation of a demand that never came ; I set no great store by

the circumstances.

In this brief account of Lowell, and in- adequate expression of the gratification it yielded me, and cannot fail to afford any foreigner to whom the condition of such people at home is a subject of interest and anxious speculation, I have carefully ab- stained from drawing a comparison be-

tween these factories and those of our

land. Many of the circumstances whose strong influence has been at work for years in our manufacturing towns have not arisen here ; and there is no manufacturing population in Lowell, so to speak ; for these girls (often the daughters of small farmers) come from other States, remain a few years in the mills, and then go home for good.

The contrast would be a strong one, for it would be between the good and evil, the living light and deepest shadow. I ab- stain from it because I deem it just to do so. But I only the more earnestly adjure all those whose eyes may rest on these pages to pause and reflect upon the differ- ence between this town and those great haunts of desperate misery—to call to mind, if they can, in the midst of party strife and squabble, the efforts that must be made to purge them of their suffering and danger : and last, and foremost, to remember how the precious time is rush- ing by.

I returned at night by the same railroad,

and in the same kind of car. One of the

passengers being exceedingly anxious to expound at great length to my companion (not to me, of course), the true principles

on which books of Travels in America

should be written by Englishmen. I feigned to fall asleep. But glancing all the way, out at window, from the corners of my eyes. I found abundance of enter- tainment for the rest of the ride in watch-

ing the effects of the wood fire, which had been invisible in the morning, but were now brought out in full relief by the dark- ness : for we were travelling in a whirl- wind of bright sparks, which showered about us like a storm of fiery snow.