Chapter 181818294

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Chapter NumberVII
Chapter TitleFROM GLEN INNES TO ARMIDALE. from the Week of Saturday last.
Chapter Urlhttp://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article181818294
Full Date1878-03-23
Page Number20
Corrections0
Word Count2265
IllustratedN
Last Corrected0000-00-00
Newspaper TitleThe Week (Brisbane, Qld. : 1876 - 1934)
Trove TitleThrough New England. A Holiday Trip
article text

K: HO LID AY-: T EI Pv

BY ABOILEMIAK./;; v\

. . CHAPTER VII: ? ; . '

.. =4),

I'ltOIl GLEN 1NNES TO AEMIDALfi. ; , ; :

(Continued from t/ie Week of Saturday ltut.)\

\Vb started from Glen Innes for Armidalo at; -1 five o'clock pu, Monday,,morning;.] The hour; t< for stardngrused to.be'eix, butifor; some .in- .' scrntable reason " the company ',' haye decided > that, for the futiiro tho, ArmidaleJ coaah shall,

start at live. itisorajiad.fetetol^vdinthe j first ooach under. the( new. time*table.; rNpbody

lm3 dtopped do^'ii to tko iiow order. : At our ( hotel everybody is,in bed and fast asleep, until j ten minutes before tie coach oomea along;,ran; \ sequently we had no ou]J of hot tea or coffee to start'jwith, aS is this iftVai-iable custom at all

these' Hotels. The landlord and the , waiter

faithfully promised over-night to hare a nfoe littio "snack", rea<fy for us, but tliey went to

"sleep and.forgot .all about it. In fact, the landlord' was so'Mtfe itt shBfri&g up in the inbrtiin^j^tiiat tot some time I was nervously

anxious about him. I was afraid I" should Have to'gi away'without getting a bill of my expenses or paying my score: He came for ward, however, j us£ in' time to lake iny money, and apologised- for hot Having- & clip of tea tetUfs.'hTi accepted the afeolo^y in lieu of the

tea and werit'cfiUke a "rooketP The' haiktorm

of the day' before '. had^laid: tiie' dust' 'and freshened up' everything around, and -the ? air

wasicooliand wdeed rather keen: before sunnse.

Such a bright clear lovely mbrning!' The hills in the distance* the teeea, the cattle and' sheep -all seemed to* he moro clearly and distinctly yisible: than usual. ?: r- r i. "We have interesting company too. There Is a mani named Delaney, who has been com mitted for' trial for murder at Vegetable-Creek^ and is now being taken to' ArmidaleiGaol .to await his trial-. He-is handcuffed'.:and-.leg ironed-! in. orthodox fashion, ptoving in tho most ^conclusive manner that the majesty of the, law. is maintained' and j -vindicated in this region as in every other por tion of Her Majesty's dominion. -It: is not often one has the privilege of spending a day with a murderer, or an alleged murderer. Our!man was not a very interesting specimen^ however. He was mild looking, exceedingly dirty and seedy, and vory sulky, which perhaps was not much to' be wonderodali after all.' To be committed to gaol on a charge of murder is not calculated to'make a!'man'good tempered, when one" comesto''consider, the ' matter Still- it. was rather' disappointing to mo that-'the nian had''not' more the look of a yillian about him. - This was the first man' charged with murder X had ever had'the privilege of travelling with,'and ho >did not come'up to my expectations by any means. ; The sub-inspector of'police who i had; him in charge was -a first'rate fellow. - As jolly as a sand boy, and he treated His - prisoner as tftough -he 'lored him,- and was prond of him. -No one could desire & more' agreeable -: travelling, companion ' than - Sub inspeotor Harrison, of Inverbll,. although tho prisoner: did ?ot seem to appreciate his com pany. . Then we had an old shepherd who had been for six months with sheep travelling for grass andhad just been paid off at Glen Innes, anil sent back to; Singleton for another flock.

The old man had not had. time to knock down his cheque, which seemed to be a great grief to him. Certainly he " got as tipsy as hefwell could on Sunday, and had two " nips" of rum on Monday .morning before starting, but this only seemed to incrca^o his thirst. JBeforo we had been on the road half an hour he was pok ing his head out of tho coach asking tho driver how far it was to the' next public-houso.. All through the day he patronised every' hotel where the coach stopped and spent as. much of his money as he possibly coald " shouting" for everybody who would accept a drink, the land lords, landladies, housemaids/and nursemaids included. lie was not at all particular as to his liquor, so long as it was something intoxi cating, and took rum, brandy, gin, draught .ser, or anything which was handiest, with

equal relish: JuBt before descending the range into Armidale,' the coachm'nii'had'to deliver a mail bag at a little roiidsido'Housriofaccommo

dation, theptojii'lotor of which only held a wine license.- The coaohmk'ti',saiu lHo-mtlo i{6,tlfaft place'was about as bad as t wice could well be, and warned the; old 'man' against' taking any. He[i6aid'hejwo'vld "risk St,'! and; heudid. When the coaoh was ready to:. start again! the old ohap enrno out pullirig an.awfully.iwrj mouth, but ;;wheri;-ho., saw.ijuB laughing at, him _ ho ibrightened . up, and ; said ; ithe wine- Tyasn't; amiss when: 1 it. .:was.j|taken properly.Ho subsequently informed! us'that that. (soft , tit; jvihe,; pholitil jhtJ, (takett;,jHth lemonade. He'said|h&.ttiod;it,neat}. first, and it.was just as much as ha cottid do to gtVit down and keej.it there:. tat afterwaids, wheil he mixeil,lt"\tith.lefflonade,it'.was'splehdid tjjjpie.', It (lid iotileetti td dgfeb ^Ith th's tjld fellow, hoWetf^j fdr the ilioHieiifc'He go't .otf thtf coach' at Armidale he rushed off to 'gist'J a shilling's worth of .brown brandy," as' he said'' he had a ' pain in. his stomach.''' He was an amiable, well-behaved old' main)'and kepi-'us all merry, with ? the, exception of

the' ''prisoner/ i'throughout: the' whole of the'day. . 'He Siid Hb eHould notigoib'eyond ArlHldalb ii±lfcil lib Udd till Hia AmfJtU he never felt eomfortable wlion t'e "tad k Jot ot money: about him. I suggested 'the propriety of: lodgmgiiit in the savings'ibaiik, biitihe would hot hear, of suoh a . thing said- all [Governments-.were "a ibad lot,!'^and jMt'the -would never, trust..any, Government) with Mb

moneyjif he| knew it.

' ^ After 'leaving^ Glen.' Inncs , the road; winds throUgli:«md between cultivited-fields'pf wlieat now leaped) oats, barley! andl,here and tiiere are m'eadows1 inhere 'grass is' growing'to make hay of. The hills itto away to the left hand, and seldditl coike in sigfht j"ahd'tfhenthe'ctiltl» vation' Is < parsed vts ? have ,r tho Lmual forest scenery-gum trees, irbnbarks; applotree,' and iwattle. : Eight miles bring t us t'to ;8tbnehenge, where wa stop at a bark humpy for-breakfaai arid tooharigahdrses., Wti'ilrp atiihoiip.earUet than; usual,>and. the ladjr;of; tho(hause.-,only puts - on ,the; steaks when she sees tho (pack.

<7^0' walk..about;tho garden looking ui the gooseberry, and currant trees untilJbreat&ac

is. apnounced. lt is,not attempting meal. The steak is decidedly high" and very toiigh)

and ntithalf cdoked. TUe kniyes aro.bliintj the tea has. been^ boiled, and IHe ,eggs liave not. - Aftor a .struggle; ^itiT^'aT'piece'.oSr steak anil a vain, attempt to raa'sticato,

decide to postpono. breakfast [' until'dinner time. . i The old. BhopherdsayH it ia not qften that 'a beefsteak" "gets the best* of' him, hut. hB is dead ' beat 'at 1 the,' one' 'I helped 'him to,! and .determines to back upon the eggs. He knocks off the^lops and prinks the contents, hut' declares/^ after

taking half a'dozen or so',1 tiiat'eggs'are'not satisfyiug, and solemnly assures the rest'of the company that Ho could "not eat raw eggs until io Was hungry.. Ho in anxiousabout th'e prisoner, whoiremains lin.theicoach.with the Sitb-Insjeotdt. ;Hb says there,-Was jonly one breakfast sent to the coach, and he darewagar his life that .the isub-inspector would ,S nail*' that. When he gives up attempting,t) satisfy himself with eggs,, he goes to tho coach.and asks, the subTinBpoctor lf .tlie man may,have somo breakfast. Thei.reply is,.'?.Cortamly! if ho will takoit." .. But ho won't tako it, and | rcpols, with a. surly, negative* the really, kind

and. gonerous offer of . the/ old man to bruig him along some tea,, bread, aiid butter and eggs, and'" stand the racket ""himsolf.'r(. :

' We remount tho coach, and are sson- in the midst of glorious scenery/ for we aro'getting closer suid closer, to t thb: great Dividing Kange at its very highest'part. : Ben. -Lomond, the highest; peak,' . said-' to bo 5,000 feet . above sea level, towers 'up grandly'above'his follows", and we go careering lithrou^h 'lovoly iglens and 'valleys, ? each one- 'higher ?' than its predecessor, a.s we .r approach iiiearur and nearer to his . majestyV h At .length we reaoh his footl<and, either tout of-respect to the mountain; or; from I regard for the horses,. all the male; passengers iwit^ thdi.oxception of the prisoner, have nto getout ? and -.walk as wo cross the range here on. to tho eastern side. Ben Lomond seems to. havg had a good,share of the hailstorm of the previous day, and walk; ing up a mountain is hard work on a,, hot day. But we beguilo the way by listonipgj tp yarns told by the pld shophord. .'Ho.;says ho.hasn't much opinion of mountains himself, although some poople. udmiro, them uncommoiy. v.Ho has boon . travelling sheep-which ho ;Oalk "monkeys "-for tho last six months round th'cBo mountains, and tho moro ho sees of: them tile less ho likes thom, although ho oxpecU that. he has ,, not dono with them yet. Hej expresses great cbntompt for Now England squatters as a class, and, "assuming that I was a Kiverina man, he confides to mo wondorful information aboiit tho country ill western Queonsland away back in the Warrego and Mitchell. 'Ho says he spent five years there, and was a fool to leave, it, but he always has been a fool all his life, ' and supposes' he shall bo to tho end. When our little party stop to rest or admire the glorious soouory, th#

towering hillB on . cither side,. and the long-stretching valloy8,.heucuts, up> tobacco; or re-lights.his-pipe, smiles scornfully at our; enthusiasm, or, assures us that two or three: Months' tailing after monkeys in that region' 'would make,us hate tho Bight of the hills and valleys, especially if other flocks of monkeys had beon'before you arid-caton up all the grass., "... .-. ,. . tj.

"' At' last the .coach overtakes, us,, and we: go spiWing,;aipng...on ;the eastern ; side of the . range,' ,but still -near enough to the' summit to ' Jbave glorious views'-at nearly every turri.bf the

road. "And.itls ari'exccllont"raadj tool'.. The ; path' over'Ben Lomond,i8. macadamiaed, and; fprimiles/ anci miles at a stretch the road'is as . sniooth-and-level:as'a;bowling 'gi-eon. 'But

the. grass has all gone again -now.3 "Fiom Glen limes to Ben Lomond there were unmis takeable signs of drought, but riot of desolation. Boon: after /crosMrig,'the range, however, the

last1 "vestige.of {yerdu"e 'disappears,..and ali.iB parched.and barren until,we reach! Falconer, where:there iB grass again for a few-miles; and we see no more worth mention during the re mainderof "ourpassigeT

: ,:'ralcon'er' is a township;' the. town, seems to

consist of two.. public-houses, with, stores ' 'attached,.and, about,v half-a7dozen cottages. We stay.here fan dinner. The \old' shepherd informed theother passerigers in confidence that he' wdsriot'goiiig t'o: be tie victim; of'.another swindle /like that' at breakfast, and ho is de termined to go, arid see what. sort. of, victuals there is going .to-be before he goes in. ; Accord inglyjheliqnorsup 'at'theborj'and then- makes his-way-to" the kitchen, lie returned Boon afterwards siriiliri'g ail over'bis 'face', arid 'nod: ding and winking., in uinysterions manner. Thenhe.went;'up to each and whiBperedjIt's; allijight, .splendid ^spuds',' riew; 'uns'."J', ' We

found out soon afterwafdsthat this' meant new

potatoes." He'was most lavish in " his praise of those'lpotatoes alljthe time we were,at dinner,

and long afterwards, j-!;! ?, ...'iiv',; : '? ->*.

, Starting an hour, earlior than'usual' in the

morning seenied- to ~litfTe>'iQrt6^'\iBTe7tI^ii|( arid' everybody'' out "of,1 gear"Nothing. was rkdy 'ariji^here"neither iriail bags, rior,- meals, und on'starting from I'alconer,: the r coachman ifaB Mf.an'hour.behiid.hi3< proper time;-'and' theigrobm'hadimariag^d-tb lose one of his best horses;5Bo'lie had;!tb'toy¥'Unicorn.. But io1 corild"dnve without a doubt, .'and tie 'thre.B, horsra.were made, conBcious^Qf that* factrbefore they, reached Armidale.Ki ; >« :

1 We stick pretty xlose',to. the. tauge arid" get glonouB views every now anil again. Mountain piled dn mountain, deep ravines ;or, open valleys, jvhere; the ,free> selector had securod' a,homestead -and' commenced the work of cultivation. ? In orie place -we'Baw the reapers hard at work, in the cornfield gathering the harvest which is late in these elevated regions.

.-At last we 'commence descending the range to get into Artnidale crossing spurs and going down lower until wecome to one long steep de scent called.' " the Devil's Pinch," which is , really appalling when looked at for the first

time:: :S,There are two breaks on the cosich, one on each side. " The driver places his foot on one and l'take the other arid give all the strength T cani'muster to keep it well on the -wheel, the horses start at soniething .like a gallop, and away ;we go; careering down for nearly three miles, and I feel quite pleased when we reach the bottom in safety. The coachman does not seem to "mind it, and is aB 'cool and collected as. though'he were on a perfectly level road, butl fanoy he is always clad when he gets over that pinch; nevertheless.' He says it'is'easier to go. dowrithan to go up it,"which:may be true but then that is only a negative sort of merit, after alt',. We ..threap onr way, among a few more hills, and. .bye-and-by get sight 'of Armidftle awiy down in'a valley. -Soon we are in the' suburbs and then dross a:bridge:and. are in the; main street at Janiscn'a hotel/where wo might,